How to Work With Wood:
In most woodwork projects you begin with the most aggressive "rough-cut" tools and progress, step by step, with finer and finer tools. You can cut a tree down with a dull axe and eventually finish that same wood with super-fine sandpaper! Here are some of the tools you would use between these steps.
Cutting:
Cutting is usually the first step in your woodworking project. Your HSRT is a small tool so all major cutting should be done with something much bigger. A power scroll saw is nice but if that is not available here are a couple of options: A "Coping Saw". This is like a metal "bow" or "U-shape" with a 5 in. fine saw blade across it. A handle on one end allows you to cut intricate shapes from wood less than 1 in. thick. Another option is to use a "spiral saw" in your HSRT. See ACCESSORIES.
The Spiral Saw can be used to slowly cut shapes out of 3/4 in. softwoods ( like pine ) but it is hard work for a small HSRT, and will not leave a smooth finish.
For instructions on how to install the Cutting Guide see: ACCESSORIES
If you are using a Spiral Saw with your Cutting Guide, adjust the depth of cut until the saw clears the wood by about 1/8in. or less. You do not want the saw sticking out of the wood, even on very thin wood: cut only with the tip of the saw. See left photo, above.
See center photo and note that the "Rotation of Bit" and the "Direction of Cut" are the same as using the Sanding Drum. However, the Spiral Saw is much more aggressive than the Sanding Drum and will cause a "Reaction". As you press the tool forward in the "Direction of Cut", the tool will "kick" or "React" by moving to the Left!. If you are cutting freehand, or cutting curves, you will have to be prepared for this reaction, and support the tool to get it to cut in the direction you wish it to go. Yes, It takes Practice. Tip:. If you are cutting a straight line, clamp a thin piece of wood as a "Cutting Fence" on the left side of the cutting guide. This will prevent the saw from "wandering" to the left, and will give you a reasonable straight cut.
Operate the saw at maximum speed, 30,000rpm or more. Wear eye, and ear protection.
See photo, above right: This little saw is quite aggressive and it takes a firm grip around the base of the HSRT to keep it steady. Be very careful not to accidentally press the spindle lock button! The position shown demonstrates the method of making a "Plunge Cut", that is, to make a hole thru the wood so you can cut an inside piece out. The edge of the Cutting Guide must be in firm contact with the wood at all times. Your right hand gently rocks the tool forward to insert the cutting bit into the wood , and your left hand steady's the Cutting Guide against possible "Reaction" to the left. After the saw is completely thru the wood, maintain a similar grip and press the HSRT slowly forward. After you have some practice and become accustomed to the reaction of the saw you will be able to cut in all directions. ( If you are cutting by pulling the saw toward you, it will "react" to the right ).
Roughing Out:
If you are making a "rectangular" project, like a little box or mini display shelves, your next step would be sanding to the exact size required. However your HSRT excels at making "compound" curves in projects, like 3D carvings, or decorative inlay work, and your next step is "Roughing Out". This means removing most of the excess material to get close to the finished size.
A variety of High Speed Steel Cutters is required to carve a 3D object. Begin "Roughing Out" with the largest cutters, 1/4in. oval or teardrop shapes work well, ( Dremel #134 or #124 ) to bring your project into approximate shape. These cutters are used with the same action as using the Sanding Drum. Practice with different shapes to learn how they will cut. Use moderate pressure and do not overload your HSRT. Keep it running at 30,000rpm or better. Try not to keep the cutter in one spot too long as this will burn both the cutter and your project. Wear eye protection and ear protection is helpful with some of the larger cutters. Some people like to wear a paper dust mask, which is a good idea, but I find that a fan, blowing across the work, is sufficient. Tip:. The dust from some wood is toxic and you must protect yourself. Allergies to pine, maple, oak, or spruce are very rare and you are probably OK to work with them. Be sure to research other woods for possible problems. Note: The fine dry dust of Red or White Cedar is one common wood that is very harmful.
Detail and Sanding:
The next step is to bring your project down to "finished" size and surface texture. Many carvings look good with a rough surface and no sanding required, and on others, sanding can alter the shape. Your HSRT is so effective at sanding that you could almost complete a small carving with just the sanding drum. When your project is close to finished size, take care not to remove too much material by sanding.
Usually you would use smaller cutters to enhance the detail on your project. A small ball-shaped cutter or a pointed triangle-shape work well for this. The ball shape can be used on the end or the side, but the triangle shape works best on its side only. Again, try several different shapes, and practice to get the effect you want.
In sanding to get a fine finish we, again, work from coarse to fine in several steps. Tip:. Sandpaper size is given in numbers and the smaller the number the larger the grit size. Sand your project with #60 ( coarse ) grit until it is finished as smooth as possible, then repeat the process using #120 grit, and again using #240 grit. You may even sand, by hand, with #400 or finer. Note: If the exact size is not available, just use the closest you have.
Sand with the grain of the wood: The "grain" of the wood is the long lines running the length of the board ( or the length of the tree ). Sandpaper is literally little grains of sand glued onto paper and when rubbed lengthwise, "with the grain" creates a smooth finish surface and allows the beauty of the wood to shine. If you rub "across" the grain, you will scratch the surface and mar the finish. This is easy to see on a large board but more challenging on an intricate carving. In some tiny areas it may not be possible to sand "lengthwise" but do your best!
The picture on the left, above, demonstrates the wrong way to sand. Note the vertical brown lines in the wood. This is the "grain" of the wood and if we sand across it, we will leave scratches! Sometimes the scratches don't show up until we stain and/or varnish our work. If you are going to put on a couple of heavy coats of paint... well, OK, you can get away with sanding across the grain, but use fine sandpaper!
The picture on the right, above, demonstrates the correct method of sanding with the grain to leave the best finish on our work.
The picture on the left, above, demonstrates sanding against the grain. Note how the rotation of the drum is "digging" into the end-grain of the wood fibres. This is like rubbing a dog's coat, backwards! Turn your wood around and sand with the grain, like the picture on the right.
Note:. These little rules for sanding are true for all types of sanding equipment, Yes, even hand-sanding. Learn to do it well, and you will produce superior results, in all your wood finishing.
Detail Sanding:
The little Sanding Disk is often overlooked as being too delicate or "fussy" but if you want a good finish on an intricate carving, this is one way to do it. 
The screw goes thru the hole in the disk and into the threaded hole in the mandrel. Note:. There is no "backing" for the sandpaper, just the sandpaper itself, so this is for delicate sanding. Don't drop that tiny screw! This is a good time to be working over the large cardboard tray I told you about in the intro. Put the mandrel into the HSRT ( often the Flex-shaft ) before putting the tiny screw in. This will hold things much steadier for you and make it easier to put the disk on. Should I remind you to un-plug your HSRT ??
Use a speed of about 10,000rpm and gently touch the edge of the disk to your work. Note, in the first picture on the left, that we are still following all the "Sanding Rules" suggested above. Even though the disk is turning, the edge that touches the wood is moving approximately "with the grain". Your HSRT will be at a slight angle to the wood and you press very gently so that the screw-head never touches the wood. As you can see from the other pictures, this disk is very versatile, reaches into tiny places, and sands "with the grain"! Tip:. A new disk may scratch your work, so just grind the edge of the disk, a little, on a scrap before touching your project.